Photo. My guide
demonstrates how the Vietnamese Guerrilla disappeared into hidden trapdoors
without traces after surprising attacks. © Travel Explorations.
The Cu Chi Tunnels lie 75 kilometres northwest of Ho Chi Minh City, also
called Saigon. These tunnels are probably the major reason for that USA failed
in the Vietnam War. Even the USA military forced were superior in weapon power,
they were almost helpless frightening against an invisible enemy.
The Cu Chi Tunnels system is an underground network of tunnels dug in
the 1940s by the Vietnamese as a place to hide during the fight against the
French. The network was later expanded and used in the American War. The system
consists of more than 250km (150 miles) of tunnels and unlit offshoots, secret trap doors
connecting narrow routes to hidden shelters, local rivers and tunnels to the
Cambodian border.
In the jungle near the village Ben Binh, there is an extent network of
tunnels. At my first glance in the area, it gives little indications of that it
is something interesting to see. My first reaction was: why do the guides take
me here? As far I could see there were no signs of fighting, bombing and
destruction as it went on in the 1960s.
After my guide revealed the hidden door to a hole in the ground, I wondered
again: what is the purpose with this hole? What kind of stuff did you hide here
during the war? The guide laughed again, and told me this was the entrance to
the cave system just as he has told me. Yes, I remember that, but I couldn't
imagine how a person could climb down such a narrow and shallow hole.
Photo. Squeezing me down to the hole was
impossible. © Travel Explorations.
If I tried to hard press me down, I feared I would be stucked in
the hole. Another thing that scared me was that I didn't new what kind of
creeps who were hiding there. |
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Then he showed me what I thought was impossible: he slided down the hole easily. Evrn it was only around 80 centimetres
across it was no problem for him. Afterwards he told me that the hole
was 1 - 3 metres deep and there was an extensive tunnel system underground. The
guide wanted me to try to. I was in big doubt if I could make it. I tried little
bit, but was worried about being stucked in the hole. And even worse: trapped
underground, or I could be lost in the labyrinths of the tunnels. I guessed it
was no signs underground written in English which could direct me to the exit.
Photo. Another secret trap door to the
amazing tunnel system. © Travel Explorations.
Based on this unique warefare, the Americans were combated. The
world had never seen a war been fightened liked this before. |
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Walking and crawling around in the tunnels was for me a scary experience. I
got the feeling of being trapped in a sauna - hot bath room. In addition it
was also totally dark some places. Here it was no fresh air or good view. It's
not the best place to stay for persons who have claustrophobia. I really hope
that I found my way out again.
I also wondered what could show up in the dark and by the next curve. It
could be snakes, spiders, scorpions, aggressive ants, and other danger creeps,
and I can ensure you that these kind creatures I would definitely not like
to encounter. For me it was better to stay on the ground together with the
bloodthirsty mosquitoes and irritating flies. I could understand that
people who lived in these tunnels for so many years must have been under a big
pressure.
I noticed that the pulse speeded up. It was an extreme heat down there and I
breathed heavily. Climbing up to the ground again was a big relief, and I felt
it was like cool air condition leaving the tunnels - even though standing
in a lush jungle.
Fighting with one arm behind the back
There are
several reasons for that USA lost the war against the Northern Vietnamese. The
American soldiers had some restrictions as not running military operations north
for the demilitarised zone, not crossing the borders to Laos and Cambodia for
military operations, not bombing targets before it was clarified with the
byracracity in Washington, not bombing temples or other holy sites, not dropping
bombs near dwellings, and it was big restrictions regarding targets for bombing
in North Vietnam. Due to these restrictions it was difficult for the Americans
to use the full potential of their strong military power, but in some cases they
did it anyway.
Many soldiers from USA were young and poorly trained. They were not
experienced with the environments and the Viet Cong`s creative warfare. Well
camouflaged tunnels were an important part of the North Vietnamese tactic, and
it gave good protection against the American bomb rain. This tunnel system
looked like anthills with people. Through the tunnel system the North Vietnamese
soldiers could appear suddenly in towns, villages, cities and camps, and cause
terrible damages. They had the initiative and could decide who should live and
who should dye.
The American soldiers used advanced equipment for communication, but the
North Vietnamese exchanged messages through the network of tunnels. There were
always a way to combat the Americans. Anyway it was an exception. One
of the most successfully American military achievement, was the retaining the
control over the Khe Sanh hills.
At the height of the Vietnam War, the tunnel system stretched from the
outskirts of Saigon all the way to the Cambodian border. It was something like
250 kilometres of tunnels. Viet Cong soldiers could show up almost everywhere
with surprising attacks.
The tunnel system, built over 25 years, starting in the
1940s, let the Viet Minh and, later, the Viet Cong, control a
huge rural area. It was an underground city with living areas, kitchens, storage,
weapons factories, field hospitals and command centres.
Photo. Underground room - kitchen and dining
room. © Travel Explorations.
But how could hide the smoke when they cooked the food? |
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It amazing to hear the story about that people dug all this with hand tools,
filling reed baskets and dumping the dirt into bomb craters. They installed
large vents so they could hear approaching helicopters, and they made smaller
vents for air and baffled vents to dissipate cooking smoke. Everything was so
well constructed for living and hiding that it was impossible for the USA
military to find them.
These tunnels were the home to 10,000 people who lived underground
for years. Some people lived in the tunnels for seven years, the guide told me.
The social life went on in a special way. At that time Vietnamese people
got married, become born and went to school. They only came out at night for gathering
food and making traps.
On my way in the jungle I observed hidden trap doors, several
tunnels and gruesomely effective bamboo-stake booby traps. It really scared
me, but at same time impressed me how people with such limited armed resources
could be so creative. I also observed a bombed M-48 tank and some bomb
craters.
Photo. Me on the M-48 tank. © Travel
Explorations.
Despite being well armed and bombing heavily around, the
effects was not what the American soldiers expected. It was mostly "a
shot in the blind". |
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The history about the tunnels
is still unknown for most people around the world. Many movies have been
produces about the Vietnam War as Platoon, Apocalypse Now, Heaven and Earth, We Were Soldiers, Full Metal
Jacket, The Deer Hunter, The Hanoi Hilton, Born on the 4th of July, but
as far I know, no one have actually focused on what was the main military
strategy and success of the Viet Cong: the incredible tunnels systems. It
explains most of the outcome of the war.
Stein Morten Lund, 5 March
2006
Additional information
The Ben Binh tunnels, which are open for visitors, are located 30 kilometres (19 miles) northwest
of Ho Chi Minh City at Tay Ninh.