In to the shapes, colours, costumes and spirituality of mystical Esfahan and Shiraz – Part 1 of 2

Esfahan is located in central Iran, and Shiraz in the southwestern part of the country. Both the cities have a fascinated story that dates back to the oldest time.

By watching the many monuments there is like travelling through history.

Just like Alice in Wonderland I was searching for exciting adventures. With locals open minded attitude and kindness my experience become unforgettable. Those cities` nostalgic looks create a special atmosphere, and represent the timeless beauty of Iran.

The wonders of Esfahan
Esfahan is one of the most beautiful cities in the Islamic world. It's located in central Iran with 1.3 million inhabitants on the Zayandeh River, 400 km from the Persian Gulf on an elevation of 1,600 metres above sea level in the Zagros Mountains. It's the capital of Esfahan Province with 3.9 million inhabitants.

Esfahan is well-known for its architectural wonders and public gardens. Esfahan has been designated as a world heritage by UNESCO. It has some of the oldest architecture in the world that dates back to the 10th century. Much now rests in ruins, but still a lot is preserved or has been restored.

Mosques
One of several landmarks of Esfahan is the formerly a royal mosque, now Emam Mosque (Masjid-e Imam). It was built in the 17th century and is one of the best examples of Persian architecture. It's located in Emam Khomeini Square, which is also known as Nagshsh-è Jahan Square.

It was amazing to observe the Imam Square (Naqsh-e-Jahan), a huge square second in the world to Beijing's Tiananmen Square. This open area host many majestic buildings. It was built in 1612 based on the vision of Shah Abbas the Great, and covers an area of 500 by 160 metres.

Photo. Emam Mosque (Masjid-e Imam) in Esfahan seen from another angel.

Emam Mosque is considered to be one of the most beautiful mosques in the world. By observing the magnificent architecture, perfect geometrical shapes and its blue-tiled mosaic decorations, I could easily understand that. Its height is 30,000 square metres makes it as the biggest mosque in Iran.

Photos. The Imam Square (Naqsh-e-Jahan).

Other highlights on the Imam Square are the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque and Ali Qapu Palace. The best time to view the area is in the morning and afternoon, and the most wonderful moment occurs when you can see the water sprawl up from the fountains in the rectangular pools in the centre, and at the same time the sunlight illuminates the area and the architectural wonders.

Photo. Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque stand in its full pride. On the left side there are waterfountains in a big pool.

Photo. Me standing in the front of Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque - a timeless beauty in Eshfahan, Iran.

Photo. Horse with carriage in Emam Square, Esfahan. Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque is seen in the background.

Whispering in Ali Qapu Palace
In Ali Qapu Palace I climbed up and down to see all beautiful interior of the building with colourful decorations. The famous Musicians Room contains elaborate cut-out plaster work depicting all manner and shapes of vases, although it is doubtful whether any could ever actually have been stored there.

Photo. Entrance to Ali Qapu Palace. At first floor in this building it's possible to meet and talk discretely to other people by whispering against the walls inside. The sound from the voice was transmitted from one side to another side of the room so the other person could hear what the person said. It was a strange way to communicate, but anyway it was fun do it. After a while I become really convinced that the way the sound was transmitted was another evidence of Iranian construction quality.

Hakim Mosque is the oldest surviving monument in Esfahan from the Buyid dynasty. Other landmarks in Shiraz are the 17th century bridges, which is unique with their arches. The most famous bridge is Si-o-Seh Pol (the 33 bridge) or Pol-e-Allahverdi Khan. This bridge is was built in the south of Chahar Bagh Street over Zayandeh Rud. It consists of 33 arches and was constructed with bricks (300 m long and 14 m wide) in 1602 A.D. by the order of Shah Abbas 1 and by Allahverdi Khan.

In the evenings the bridge is beautiful illuminated by lights. In the river there is a big beautyful waterfontain with shifting colours in the dark. It`s also illuminated by strong lights. This bridge links the upper and lower halves of Chahar Bagh St.

Photo. Si-o-She Brigde (160 metres long). One of Esfahan`s bridges seen in the dark. It`s so beautiful illuminated by the lights.

Bazaars
I also visited one of the most famous bazaars in Iran, where I bought some arts and crafts, which Esfahan is so well renowned for. Connected to the Imam Square over several kilometres there is a huge and busy bazaar called Bazar-e Bozorg (Great Bazaar). This bazaar is one of the largest in Iran. It was built early in the 16th century, but some parts of its dates back from the 13th century.

All the large windows in the bazaar let the light come in, so it doesn't become too dark. Iran's expansive bazaars make it difficult to find the way back on your own if you are not working there daily. Many get lost in the incredible great numbers of labyrinths.

It`s well worth to see Hasht Behesht, Vank Church, the spectacular and historic Friday Mosque as well as the famous bridges. In particular, the "The Bridge of 33 Arches" ("33 Arch Bridge") or "Si o Se Pol" dates from 1602. It's a colourful meeting place for locals to gather, drink tea, and refresh themselves. Here people invited me to join them for tea and food, and we had a really good time together, talking and laughing.

ManarJomban (Shaking Minarets)
The mysterious tomb of Abu Abdollah is from the 14th century and located in Kaladyn, about 7 kilometres west of the city centre. It was an unforgettable sight observing that the minarets shook.

Photo. ManarJomban (Shaking Minarets). A man stood on the top of the building shaking one of the minarets. Suddenly the other minaret started to shake too. How can the connection be explained? Some believed it's because of a building error. Other believes that this astonishing phenomenon is constructed on purpose. Anyway the mystery is unsolved, and will still fascinate people in the future.

Fire temple Ateshkadeh-ye Esfahan
By driving 1,5 kilometres further west from the Shaking Minarets, we could admire a huge fire temple on a top of a small, but steep hill. It was called Ateshkadeh-ye Esfahan, and dates from the Sassanian times.

I climbed up to take a closer look to the remains of the ancient fire temple. I could the see its mud-brick ruins, and wonder how the rituals and ceremonies have been in the past. From the top I got a wonderful panorama view of Esfahan city and the Zayandeh River. Photo. Fire temple on a top of a hill. My guide Amir is admiring the view over the beautiful Esfahan City.

Photo. From the fire temple on a top of a hill, I and my guide Amir could admire the view over the beautiful Esfahan City.

The grandeur of Esfahan inspires people to visit it many times. It's so nice to walk around and just dream away in the tranquil atmosphere.

This article continues in Part 2: read more about mystical Esfahan and Shiraz in Iran. There are many great things to sense here!

Stein Morten Lund, 5 September 2004

Additional information

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Pars Tourist Agency (P.T.A.), Iran

Presentation:
It`s a private Persian incoming agency. It's located in Shiraz under the license number 1/47026 issued by Iran Travel & Tourism Organization (ITTO) (www.farstourism.org). They organise a wide variety of tours for individuals as well as groups such as inbound historical, cultural, anthropology, mountaineering, trekking, adventure and natural excursion tours.

Speciality - exploring nomad tribes:
For real adventurers P.T.A. arranges expeditions in to rural areas to search for nomad tribes in Iran's high mountains. Some of the tribes are Bakhtiari, Lor, Qashqai. They live in a beautiful landscape that will take your breath away. You will be able to explore the tribe's daily life and unique culture in a natural way. Sometimes you will experience a wedding, birth, fighting game, dancing, festival or other things. Take your time and see what happens. Then it will be an experience of a lifetime.

Contact info:
Phone: 0098-711-2223163 and 0098-711-2240645. Mobile Phone (around the clock) 0098-9171118514.
Fax: 0098-711-2229693
Letters: Pars Tourist Agency (P.T.A), Zand Street 71358, Next to Iran Cinema, Shiraz, Iran.
Website: www.key2persia.com
E-mail: info@key2persia.com

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